In this first video of my DIY pole barn build series, I break ground on a 28x32 budget-friendly barn designed in SketchUp and built with durability in mind. I explain why I chose this layout, walk through the permitting process, and bring in a local pro to make sure the foundation is square, level, and set right from the start. Together we install 6x6 posts in concrete, add blocking for uplift protection, and set temporary headers and bracing to stabilize the structure.

What you’ll see in this video:

• Planning, layout, and why barn placement matters

• Drilling holes, setting posts, and pouring concrete correctly

• How blocking and bracing strengthen your foundation

• Why getting posts plumb and square now saves major headaches later

• Full breakdown of materials, labor, and total cost for Step 1

Whether you’re planning your own barn, garage, or shop, this video shows how to get your build off the ground the right way. With proper planning and a rock-solid foundation, every step that follows will line up easier and last longer.

In this second video of my DIY pole barn build series, I notch 6x6 posts with a chainsaw jig and install heavy 2x10 headers to support the roof structure. Using Liquid Nails, power lags, and rafter hangers, I set the first run of rafters for the lower roof section and tie in custom rafter tails and purlins for overhangs. This step is all about precision—making sure everything is square, level, and built to last—while keeping the project budget-friendly with DIY labor.

What you’ll see in this video:

• Cutting clean notches in 6x6 posts with a chainsaw jig

• Installing headers with Liquid Nails and power lags for strength

• Setting rafters with hangers, proper spacing, and crown-up alignment

• Custom rafter tails and blocking for clean overhangs

• Installing purlins and prepping for the upper roof section

• Total time invested, tools used, and lessons learned along the way

Whether you’re building a barn, shop, or garage, this step shows how to safely and efficiently install lower headers and rafters while avoiding costly mistakes.

In part three of my DIY pole barn build series, I tackle the taller, steeper roof section of the barn with longer spans and more challenging cuts. Using a chainsaw jig, Liquid Nails, and heavy-duty lag screws, I notch posts and install structural headers before cutting and raising massive rafters at a 5/12 pitch. This step is all about strength and precision—getting the tall roof framed safely while keeping the project cost under control with DIY methods.

What you’ll see in this video:

• Cutting clean notches for upper headers with a chainsaw jig

• Securing headers with Liquid Nails and oversized lag screws

• Laying out and cutting rafters for a 5/12 pitch roof

• Raising and aligning long-span rafters with proper spacing

• Installing purlins and reinforcing the tall roof structure

• Total cost update and lessons learned from working 16 ft up

If you’re planning a DIY barn, shop, or garage build, this step shows how to safely frame and install upper rafters on a steep roof while balancing budget, durability, and DIY craftsmanship.

In part four of my DIY pole barn series, I frame every wall using commercial “bookshelf” framing (2×6 in-fill between posts)—a method that makes the barn stronger, straighter, and far more energy-efficient than traditional face-nailed girts. I’ll show layout, jigs, treated bottom boards, tongue-and-groove skirt/detail, window/door rough-ins, and garage-door headers—plus costs and time.

What you’ll see in this video

• Why bookshelf framing beats traditional girts (strength, shear, and insulation air-sealing)

• Tongue-and-groove skirt boards that align with the slab and keep the pour clean

• Cutting and installing 2×6 in-fill on 24" OC cavities for ready-to-insulate walls

• Framing balanced window openings (front and upper gables) and man door rough-ins

• Real-world numbers: ~30 hours DIY over several sessions; ≈ $1,300 in lumber, nails, screws

If you plan to finish the interior later (drywall, OSB, or plywood) or care about heating/cooling efficiency, bookshelf framing sets you up right away—structure and interior backing are done in one pass, cavities are clean for spray foam or batts, and the barn resists racking and wind loads better from day one.

In part five of my DIY pole barn build, I take the next step in strengthening and sealing the structure by installing OSB sheathing and wrapping the barn with house wrap. This process locks the frame together, keeps the building square, and adds a protective layer before siding and roofing go on.

What you’ll see in this video:

• Installing horizontal OSB panels for added strength and rigidity

• Fastening techniques using the DeWalt framing gun and galvanized nail

• Using the Kreg Rip-Cut for fast, accurate panel rips

• Cutting and fitting OSB sheets around rooflines and window openings

• Applying house wrap solo in windy, cold conditions

• Pro tips for reducing waste, controlling drafts, and keeping everything square

If you’re planning your own DIY pole barn, garage, or shop, this step shows how to create a tight, durable shell that’s ready for siding and roofing—while keeping costs down with smart DIY techniques.

In part six of my DIY pole barn build series, I move into the finishing details of the roof system by adding custom rafter tails and overhangs. These upgrades aren’t just for looks—they add critical protection against rain and snow while giving the barn a unique, high-end appearance. Unlike many pole barns that skip overhangs, this step makes mine stand out with detail and craftsmanship.

What you’ll see in this video:

• Designing and cutting custom rafter tails with consistent overhang spacing

• Installing 2x10 backers and 2x8 rafter tails using heavy-duty power lags

• Aligning, leveling, and fastening long overhang runs across each wall

• Adding fascia boards and pllians for a clean, finished roofline

• Tackling angled cuts and miters at the ridge for precise alignment

• Total cost breakdown and project update as the framing phase ends

If you’re building a DIY pole barn, shop, or garage, this video shows how to finish your framing with professional-looking exposed rafters and overhangs—boosting both durability and curb appeal before moving on to roofing.

In part seven of my DIY pole barn build series, I bring in the pros to install a durable metal roof on my custom barn. While I’ve handled most of the build myself, roofing is one area where safety, speed, and value made hiring help the smart choice. In this video, I show how the crew installed thick-gauge panels, trim, and flashing the right way—getting the barn dried in and ready for the next phases.

What you’ll see in this video:

• Why I hired pros for the roof: safety, speed, and long-term value

• Prepping the barn for thicker, higher-quality metal panels

• Installing roof edge trim, drip stop, and proper overhangs

• Fast panel placement with correct seam overlaps and screw patterns

• Cutting and trimming panels cleanly with pro-grade tools

• Adding ridge cap foam, flashing, and finishing details to seal out water and birds

• Full cost breakdown: $4,900 total for metal + labor, done in just 4 hours

If you’re considering a DIY metal roof or debating when to hire professionals, this video shows how to get a top-quality install done safely, quickly, and on budget—while protecting your new pole barn for decades to come.

In part eight of my DIY pole barn series, I step beyond typical steel siding and install fiber-cement panels with LP SmartTrim to create a durable, house-grade board-and-batten finish that matches my home. I cover layout, cutting heavy panels safely, nailing patterns, corner/trim details, and how to keep everything straight, sealed, and clean for long-term curb appeal.

What you’ll see in this video:

• Why I chose fiber cement + LP trim over steel for a next-level look and longevity

• Ledger setup, panel layout (16" O.C. battens), and nail spacing (6" edges / 8" field)

• Cutting fiber-cement safely (PPE + rip guide) and hanging full 10-ft sheets solo

• Flashing and gapping at panel breaks under rakes; keeping factory-primed edges “up”

• Building crisp outside corners with 1×6 trim and batten alignment tricks

• Crafting gable/rake details: ripping to fit, sealing, and tying into exposed rafters

• Trimming garage door and window openings (LP 1×6/1×3, reveals, caulk lines)

• Real-world tips: weight management, grain direction, and when I’d choose LP panels next time

• Cost & time: ~$5,800 in materials; ~32 hours of DIY labor (big savings vs hiring)

In this step of my DIY pole barn build series, I turn unused overhead space into two functional lofts, adding roughly 150 square feet of storage without increasing the footprint of the building. By placing the lofts above existing garage door openings, I’m able to maximize space that would otherwise go unused while keeping the layout clean and practical.

This build focuses on simple framing, smart material choices, and structural strength, all while staying on budget. I walk through the layout, framing decisions, and installation process step by step, showing how to add loft storage that feels more like a second floor than basic shelving.

What you’ll see in this video:

• Why I added lofts above the garage doors to reclaim wasted overhead space

• Framing the main loft with 2x10 joists for longer span and higher load capacity

• Framing the front loft with 2x8 joists where space and load requirements are smaller

• Installing 3/4" tongue-and-groove OSB decking and staggering seams for durability

• Using lasers and layout tools to keep everything level and square

• How long the project took and what it cost compared to hiring it out

This loft build is part of my ongoing DIY Pole Barn Build on a Budget series and shows how thoughtful planning can turn dead space into long-term, usable storage that adds real value to the building.

In this part of my DIY pole barn build series, I pour the concrete floor inside the 28×32 barn and both porches — the step that finally ties the entire structure together.

This video covers everything from prep work to finishing, including where I saved money and what I’d do differently next time.

What you’ll see in this video:
• Why I hired pros for the concrete pour
• Pouring 12 yards of 4,000 PSI fiber-reinforced concrete
• How I prepped the base myself with grading, gravel, and compaction
• Form setup, fall, and fixing a garage-door height mistake
• Wheelbarrow vs. chute pouring and how the crew sped things up
• Smooth interior finish vs. broom finish on both porches
• Final slab leveling, edging, and saw-cut control joints
• Full cost breakdown: concrete + labor (total was about $5,200)

If you’re building a DIY pole barn, garage, or shop, this video shows exactly what to expect when pouring a slab — including realistic costs, prep steps that save money, and how the pros get a clean, level finish.

In part eight of my DIY pole barn build series, I finish out the structure by installing insulated garage doors, a fiberglass man door, and budget-friendly windows. This step makes the barn weather-tight, secure, and one step closer to finished living and storage space.

What you’ll see in this video:

• Why I hired pros for the garage doors (and how they’re installed)

• Installing a LiftMaster MyQ side-mount opener with Wi-Fi and battery backup

• Choosing a fiberglass man door that matches my home’s style

• Installing budget-friendly vinyl windows at a fraction of traditional window costs

• Adding hardware, deadbolt, and weatherproofing for security

• Full cost breakdown: about $8,000 total for doors and windows
  
  

If you’re building a DIY pole barn, shop, or garage, this video shows how to finish the build with durable doors, secure entryways, and cost-saving windows—making your barn weatherproof, efficient, and ready for the next phase of the project.